Jasmine scents you haven't yet met

Alternatives to the lists you've seen before

I had my first ‘official’ fragrance appeal last week and I am very, very happy about it. After mentioning the fragrant bushes I pass on my morning run, and discussing (in depth) the variations of jasmine and how it is one of the most used florals in fragrance, I was asked if there were any interesting jasmine scents outside of the more obvious ones, and if there were any particularly special ones that I could recommend. ‘Why, of course!’ I bellowed, ‘Let me just pull up my list and I can tell you precisely what you’re looking for!’ I was told there was no rush, which made the pursuit even more pleasurable as it meant I could really rummage through my lists, and create a new one as a result.

Rather than just Whatsapping my suggestions, I opted to delve deeper into each of the fragrances, firstly, for my personal pleasure, and secondly, so anybody reading this doesn’t have to do the hard work. Sticking to my brief, I’m highlighting some of the more ‘special’ jasmine fragrances that I have enjoyed, or will be doing as soon as I get the chance to. I hope you enjoy it too.

A very brief introduction to jasmine in fragrance

There are over 200 varieties of jasmine, but it is jasmine sambac and jasmine grandiflorum that are most commonly used in fragrance. Jasmine sambac is more sensual and sweet, whereas jasmine grandiflorum is a softer, fresher floral scent. Jasmine absolute is the highly prized oil extracted from jasmine flowers, and is an intense, long-lasting floral. However, the aromas vary depending on where and how the jasmine was cultivated. It is incredibly versatile, appearing in endless numbers of fragrances, in endless numbers of ways, and is most commonly one of the middle notes. As a lot of jasmine flowers are needed for a very small amount of oil, both natural and synthetic jasmine is now being utilised for fragrance

What I’ve been wearing

I was sent a sample of the new Chloé Lumineuse EDP (£71 for 50ml) and I wore it three days in a row, only stopping to preserve some for the weekend, spent with family and friends. The first words that come to mind when describing this scent on my skin is ‘golden’, which is probably a good thing considering ‘lumineuse’ means bright. It opens with a strong hit of jasmine sambac, which then softens with powdery pink rose. The duo seems to float on a stream of amber, vanilla and balsamic, the latter notes preventing the former from being resinous. Although it’s marketed as a Spring fragrance, there is an undeniable comfort and warmth in the scent, akin to lying in the sun on a warm Spring day, or settling down to watch the sun set in September, which I think would be lovely to bring into the Winter months. Because it’s devoid of green notes, it should sit well with most skin in the cooler temperatures. It is very much a feminine scent that will appeal to most women without being too predictable or generic (making it a very good gifting option). They say it has an ‘addictive roundness’, to which I would reply a witty comment, but I am too busy burying my nose in my wrist when wearing it to take notice

What I want to wear

FLORIS LONDON Night scented jasmine EDT (£100 for 100ml)

Described as ‘intensely feminine’, Floris London’s Night scented jasmine (£100 for 100ml) was created by perfumer Juan Famenias Floris as a love letter to summer evenings in Menorca with his wife. Top notes include mandarin, neroli and violet leaf, the latter of which has piqued my interested in recent weeks and adds a spicy-green element to fragrances. At the heart, jasmine is paried with gardenia, iris, narcissus, mimosa, rose and ylang ylang, a hefty bouquet that works to intensify the jasmine, so that it rings in the same way it does after a blissfully hot day. At the base lies warming amber, for sensuality, and vetiver, for uncompromised elegance

GUERLAIN Jasmin bonheur EDP (£215 for 50ml)

My experiences with the L’art & La Metiere collection by Guerlain has been nothing short of exceptional, and I predict their Jasmin bonheur EDP (£215 for 50ml), inspired by the bright coloured paint palettes of Henri Matisse, is another encounter that will have me wanting more. Here, jasmine is coupled with fresh orange and radiant apricot, vibrant violet and tender pink rose - notes that paint a picture alone. The jasmine used is sourced from three different locations: Grasse, Calabria and India, which gives complexity and rounds out the florals before any of the other notes are considered. Clearly a fruity-floral, the touch of iris at the base will allow the white florals to blossom and bloom, creating a scent as joyous and exciting as any original Matisse

SANA JARDIN Savage jasmine EDP (£180 for 100ml)

Sana Jardin’s Savage jasmine EDP (£180 for 100ml) is jasmine stripped bare. It’s pure, raw and intoxicating, exactly like the scent of jasmine hanging in the midnight air. There’s a tiny bit of musk and tobacco in the base, which, for me, adds to that sense of licentiousness. Although potent, it doesn’t last as long on the skin as you might expect, making it even more perfect for date night, because as the scent dries and gets closer to the skin, so does the person who leans in to smell it

ARMANI Prive les eaux jasmin Kusamono EDT (£175 for 100ml)

A combination of Nashi pear accord, pink pepper and lily of the valley accord promise to bring out a more aquatic side to the jasmine sambac used in Armani’s Prive les eaux jasmin Kusamono EDT (£175 for 100ml). This is contrasted with a base of cedar and sandalwood, creating an earthier take on jasmine than often found. It feels more like a splash of jasmine than an explosion of florals, but I found the variation unexpected and interesting, and would offer this as a possible floral scent for gents. The combination of notes unfold very differently on different people, with some loving the fresh citrussy pear, but others picking up on a dustiness from the wood

DIPTYQUE Olene EDT (£129 for 100ml)

I don’t often sing the praises of an EDT, so I don’t anticipate that DIPTYQUE’s Olene EDT (£129 for 100ml) will change my life, however, with notes of wisteria, honeysuckle, jasmine and narcissus, along with a promise to transport me to the gardens of Venice, I am more than willing to try. It is marked as a true floral fragrance, with a forward opening that dries down to a soapier, cleaner scent akin to freshly washed linens. This doesn’t mean it doesn’t have longevity, it just may not carry as much weight as you might want. Although I haven’t experienced it, it sounds ideal as a day-to-day scent for the Summer months

BYREDO Flowerhead EDP (£150 for 50ml)

I’m bringing your attention to BYREDO’s Flowerhead EDP (£150 for 50ml) because it’s a very classic, floral fragrance, making it very different from the usual scents that Ben Gorham (BYREDO’s founder and perfumer) usually creates. It’s inspired by the abundance of flowers found at traditional Indian weddings, hanging throughout the canopy and through the brides hair - making her a literal flowerhead - and when you smell it, you’ll be feeling like a literal flowerhead too. It’s a punchy bouquet dominated by wild jasmine sambac and tuberose, but has soft rose petals nestled within there. There’s a little fruitiness, but with a damp earthiness coming from green notes, akin to being in a flower shop, which makes the fragrance all the more realist

SERGE LUTENS A la nuit EDP (£228 for 75ml)

A la nuit by Serge Lutens (£228 for 75ml) is a very true (and very intense) jasmine scent, using Indian, Egyptian and Moroccan jasmines. It opens with an abundance of flowers that are electrified with notes of green coming in behind. Honey, clove and benzoin bring a sweet, smooth warmth as the fragrance dries down, and does so without affecting the affluence of the floral notes. It’s a fragrance for those who like jasmine with serious oomph, but may take some getting used to

LE LABO Lys 41 EDP (£168 for 50ml)

So this is one you probably will have heard of, and, if you have tested it, may have fallen in love already. Another incredibly forward white floral scent, LE LABO’s Lys 41 (£168 for 50ml) contains a heady mix of jasmine and tuberose, but couples it with lily of the valley to give a really clean, incredibly strong, floral scent. It is sweet but provocative, and will be too much for some but a holy grail for others. It’s fairly simplistic, but if you are a fan of white florals and want to experience jasmine in a floral harmony, Lys 41 will be a go-to

CHLOE Nomade jasmine naturelle intense EDP (£100 for 50ml)

The second Chloe fragrance on my list is the Nomade jasmine naturelle intense EDP (£100 for 50ml), which is designed as ‘an ode to the beauty of the world’. Another scent pairing petals with pears, but this time adding dates to the mix, giving it a sticky, cinnamon-y sweetness, but in a warm and mature way. Creamy vanilla and sandalwood add another layer of warmth, and a touch of patchouli brings that soft musky woody touch that I can’t help but love. Some people pick up more sweetness than others, but whatever note makes itself known to you most, I am sure it will feel indulgent

Others worth noting:

Dior J’adore L’or EDP (£144 for 50ml) - Another Mr Kurkdjian creation and one of my favourite jasmine scents. It’s like falling into a golden stream of jasmine nectar

Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine EDP (£135 for 100ml) - I didn’t rate this on paper, however someone I was with recently was wearing it and it smelled wonderful on her

Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden A Floral Verse EDP (£240 for 100ml) - I talk about this here

Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li Hermes EDT (£84 for 50ml) - I talk about this here (spoiler: I love it)

AERIN Ikat Jasmine EDP (£150 for 100ml)

Burberry HER EDP (£124 for 100ml) was created by no other than Francis Kurkdjian. Whilst it isn’t necessarily a jasmine-forward fragrance, I’m listing it as it’s one I would like to test to see how (or if) the jasmine plays out. The heart is jasmine and violet, but the top notes include strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, sour cherry, blackcurrant, mandarin and lemon, which are then contrasted with the softer, earthier notes of vanilla, cashmean, amber, oakmoss and patchouli at the base. If it wasn’t for the latter notes, I wouldn’t be remotely interested in the fruit-forward fragrance that you would expect, however, given the extensive mix, I am intruiged to see how the layers unfold and how the fragrance keeps. The scent is supposed to capture the energy and optimism of women with London at their heart, so it seems only right for me to test this

Are there any jasmines you love that should be on this list? I’d love to know.