This past week (18-24 March), the UK has been celebrating National Fragrance Week. It doesn’t take much for me to want to celebrate fragrance, but I will gladly take any opportunity to talk about them some more (and more, and more), and the past couple of weeks have been choc with olfactory indulgences, of which some I want to share. There were a few I loved, many I lingered over, and plenty that made me crinkle my nose whilst placing the bottle straight back on the shelf. We can’t love them all.
When trialling scents, I take notes as I go, describing first impressions, later adding how the scent develops over time, and finally using the notes to write more rounded thoughts. Below, I share some of my recent liked scents, 10 at the top of my hit list, and some news for those who want to know
First up, the roses. I have a soft spot for good rose scents, which is one of the reasons why I put off testing more than one or two at once, for fear that I will exhaust it, or lose the ability to decipher how each layer of a fragrance shapes the rose. My latest experiences were nothing less than exceptional. First, it was Molton Brown’s Rose Dunes EDP (£120 for 100ml). This is a really warm rose, with top notes that include saffron and ginger, middle notes including raspberry, magnolia and lily of the valley, and base notes that include oud, patchouli, leather, musk and sandalwood. I tested this on paper, picking up on citrus and oud at first, but seconds later found myself enveloped in roses and soft florals, velvet and fine powder, as if standing in a room with walls made of the fabrics and flowers wafting in a warm breeze around me. It’s elegant but grounded by the base notes, which add a sumptuousness without being heavy. It’s comforting too, not just because rose is one of my favourites, but because of the powdery warmth and recognisable white florals in there. Complex and totally mesmerising: I loved every second. I also tried their Wild Mint & Lavandin (£120 for 100ml) which was a shock to my system after the rose experience. It is really minty fresh, but with a dry green coming from the lavandin which keeps it from feeling gimmicky, and woodier notes come through as it settles on the skin. I can imagine people swearing by this, possibly more for men, but a unique palette-cleansing alternative for either sex. However, it wouldn’t be the first thing I reach for


The second rose is Guerlain’s L’Art & La Matiere Rose Cherie EDP (£295 for 100ml) My notes read ‘I can’t believe I have only just had the pleasure of smelling this. The most elegant, vibrant pink rose I have ever come across. Heaven scent!!!’ Overenthusiastic? Perhaps. But rightly so. Pink roses undoubtedly lead the way, but a group of tiny violets are there cheering them on. The addition of heliotrope (which for me, adds a sweet almond-marzipan-floral note) makes itself known via an eruption of powdered white flowers, blossoming in the air. But what fascinated me most was the sherbet-like tang behind every note, genuinely capturing that sharp-sweet flavour in the most elegant olfactory form. Having never appreciated this before in a scent, I was enchanted by this achievement. Rose Cherie went straight to my favourites list
In the past, I have struggled to get excited about fragrances described akin to ‘baby powder’ or ‘linen’, but in recent months, as I have been working on my ‘nose’ as often as possible, I have come to appreciate nuances and subtleties that I didn’t give the time of day before. One of my favourites in this category, thus far, is the uncontestably divine Infusion d’Amande by Prada (£135 for 100ml). This is subtle and tender, with a golden-white nuttiness from bitter almonds, sweetened with heliotrope, powdered with musk and rounded out with tonka and anise. It lays elegantly on the skin, cosying in just as you would with a cashmere blanket as the colder months set in. The baby blue bottle is the perfect display for what lies within
When I tried my luck in Jo Malone, three scents took me totally by surprise. At the top of the shock list was English Oak & Hazelnut. I was drawn to this because I wanted to see how the hazelnut comes through, and how the fragrance unfolds considering the simplicity of its notes. It’s been quite unforgettable since. It’s green and fresh and woody and sparkly, as if you’re foraging for hazelnuts in an English forest, with fresh dew still glistening on the leaves. It’s sophisticated, and although perhaps more masculine, it is something I would wear without a doubt. The longevity is far better than any other Jo Malone scent I have experienced
Next came Nectarine Blossom & Honey (£118 for 100ml). Again, I was drawn to this to see how the honey comes through, and found myself writing ‘the way honey swirls through the fragrance, from the opening spritz to the dry-down is commendable, feeling naturally sweet but not sickly-so, much like the real product.’ There’s a syrupy-hit of nectar from the blossom, but the green notes coming from petitgrain and blackcurrant have enough presence to stop the fragrance from being obviously fruity or floral. As with many Jo Malone scents, I found this more of a body-spray in sillage and longevity



Finally, I trialled the new Jo Malone Red Hibiscus Cologne Intense (£150 for 100ml). For some reason, I was expecting a really generic scent, but I found it delicious. It’s warm without needing leather or oud, sweet without being gourmand. On opening, I found it juicy and fruity (ginger and mandarin), which gives way to blooming white and yellow florals before moving on to a warmer, richer scent (black orchid, amber, cardamom and vanilla). It maintains a good balance between the florals, sweetness and spice at all points. Its got a better longevity than most Jo Malone fragrances I have tried, and is a very good option for gifting the women in your life
10 SCENTS I can’t wait to try
Matiere Premier Vanilla Powder // Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit // Aerin Rose de Grasse Rouge // Perfumer H Bergamot // Perfumer H Pear // BDK Parfums Gris Charnel // Penhaligon’s AlUla // LOEWE Agua Drop // LOEWE Agua Mar de Coral // Byredo La Tulipe
FROM THE NEWSROOM
Liberty London have opened their Fragrance Lounge, a space dedicated to the art of scent housed in the lower ground floor of the hallowed Liberty store. You can book personal appointments, ranging from a short consultation to hours in a luxury private suite, or journey through the space at your own pace, guided by outlines of olfactory families so you can learn what you naturally steer towards. The space is sumptuous through and through, and if the fragrances themselves don’t get you talking, The Noseum installation, formed of 360 individual 3D scanned noses protruding from a board, is sure enough to spark some conversation
Acne Studios is launching its first perfume in April, created by no other than Frederic Malle and with Suzy Le Halley using her nose to lead the way. The top notes of Acne Studios by Frédéric Malle are aldehydes, which will give the fragrance a clean, soap-like character which has risen in popularity over the past 12 months, as well as notes of rose, violet and orange blossom. A base of white musk will contribute to this aesthetic. At the heart is incense, vanilla, sandalwood and peach, for a little sweetness. It will be sold in Acne Studio stores, Frederic Malle boutiques, and in some department stores
H beauty Lakeside, a branch of Harrods and located in the Lakeside Shopping Centre, RM20, has upgraded their fragrance bar and will include new scents from a wider range of brands. The London store is marking it’s 175th birthday this year with products to mark the celebration, which includes exclusive fragrances and new designs from Creed and Ralph Lauren, among others. I’ve got my nose on the Polo Oud, housed in a very handsome bottle of the iconic Harrods hue
Amie Elizabeth x