Sample sessions

Trials and tribulations, fragrance edition

I am always, always sampling. Sometimes I order them, sometimes they are sent my way (lucky me!), sometimes they are given as part of a gift bag or promo, and sometimes (my favourite way) I spend an afternoon hunting down specific scents I can’t go another day without experiencing. I set myself a task over the past few weeks to go through some of my samples and to share them here, and goodness, it’s been a journey. I’ve been to Paris, Rome, California and Portofino. There are scents for summer, scents for gents and scents that (apparently) transform you into a sexually charged human being. Am I allowed to write that here? I don’t know, but I do know that there are some very good things to whet your whistle and wrists within.

Narcotic Delight by Initio (£245 for 90ml)
This is the reason I decided to do a sample session. It is a brand I had never heard of and a good sized sample bottle that I cannot recall where I got it from, but I am so glad I did. It is described as ‘A sensual shot of provocation’ and warns of the inescapable spell, ignition of the senses, and excitement of the imagination caused by the ‘subversive concentrate’. Though it sounds like it could verge into intrusive and quirkier territory, the main accords are cherry, cognac, vanilla, black pepper, pink pepper, and tobacco: a cocktail of pure indulgence. It goes straight in with cognac and bold cherries, the peppers dance as they disperse. The vanilla is pure and rich, pulling that cherry forward, drenching itself in the brandy, and immersing you into its sweet and sensual world. As it dries, an elegant tobacco rises into the air. It’s quite magical. At it’s heart lies hedione, which is supposed to stimulate the brain’s pleasure centres - and I do believe it. Strong and forward, dark and delicious, it isn’t one for shying away, but it isn’t one that can’t be worn by day either. An investment indeed.

Suite 302 by Victoria Beckham (£170 for 50ml)
This is one of my favourites of this selection. Do not be fooled by the white bottle: what you expect is not what you get. It smells like the feeling of wearing your sexiest lingerie while playing around with cashmere clothes or throws, wrapping and unwrapping yourself as you decide which to go for. It’s undeniably delicious, not in a gourmand way, but more carnal and sophisticated. It’s a mix of black cherry and red pepper, leather and tobacco leaf, violet and rose. The leather is strong but stays elegant; powdery with prowess. And it *glistens*, like a diamond bracelet reflecting in the light as you swan around your bedroom. It is styled to be the scent of 'intoxicating glamour... the seduction swirls from dimmed hotel rooms clouded with bold florals and spicy peppercorn to intimate walks of the city's winding streets at midnight, imbued with a trail of smoky masculine notes'. I don’t know if that was the brief or the story written after the fragrance was developed, but it really does hit the perfect note. It holds absolutely beautifully on my skin (thank you, Lord), and I would recommend this for any woman looking for a little bit of oomph, but wants a comforting caress too.

Suite 302, Victoria Beckham

Portofino ‘97 by Victoria Beckham (£170 for 50ml)
‘A tease of the fresh sea breeze is clouded with incense and amber, a lingering trace of patchouli, musk and vetiver punctuate the desire.' Though I expected a sharp citrus opening, I was surprised to meet a mellow, jucier fruit more like mango, nestling in among their leaves. The bergamot is lively and magic, bringing a bright and green Italian flair, before a headier combination of amber and incense (mild enough to be sexy and endearing rather than heavy or spicy) rounds the fragrance out and starts to pin it down. It is golden and summery, but settles into something a little drier, and I pick up a notable herbaceous element from the patchouli. I imagine a mass of people will choose this as their go-to for hot Summer evenings (in every implied way), and it would be a safe scent to gift someone who doesn’t want anything too overt or complex. The downsides? The fruitiness evaporates from my skin within minutes, and the musky, herby, Mediterranean scent that is left barely whispers. A good one if you want something light for the evening.

California Rêverie by Van Cleef & Arpels (£153 for 75ml)
From their ‘Collection Extraordinaire’, and worthy of such appraisal. Every note they list is every note you get: a gorgeous bouquet of jasmine and frangipani, sundrenched and blossoming but clean and uncomplex. It is spirited by mandarin and neroli, then sweetened by a light vanilla and the delicate but unmistakable honeyed notes of beeswax. It’s like following the bees taking pollen from one flower to the next, leaving trails in the air. They take you deeper and deeper, and everything melts into the florals as they warm and develop on your skin. It is noticeable in its potency, but it isn’t markedly in its projection, making it softer and more personal than others in the Van Cleef collections. I imagine someone like Meghan Markle or the Spencer twins wearing something like this - take from that what you will, but I would wear it with no hesitation.

California Reverie, Van Cleef & Arpels

Rêverie de Bergamote by Miller Harris (£140 for 100ml)
One little spritz is all it takes to transport you straight to Calabria. Bright and expressive, bursting with really fresh and juicy citruses. As it dries down, the tangerine holds prominent, joined by bundles of rosemary and dried lavender, artemisia and a slight pepperiness from coriander and caraway. Green-florals from geranium waft around in the breeze, before settling with patchouli and moss, anchoring it to my skin. There is leather, cedar and sandalwood in the mix, but it is the greener, brighter notes that sing on me. It makes you crave the sunshine, or a platter of cold, juicy orange slices. This is a unisex scent, thought I think it will be more popular with gents, and the longevity is great.

Neon Amber by Molton Brown (£140 for 100ml)
I had completely forgotton about my sample bottle of this, and I am so pleased to have found it ahead of this feature. It smells ‘nice’ from the bottle, but as soon as it hits your wrist, it explodes into beams of gold that you want to completely immerse yourself in. It’s lively, with pink pepper and cistus oil (which brings a sweeter, woodier side out of the bergamot). There is a notable hay accord, which sounds strange, but visualise standing in a barn as glorious sunbeams shine through the doorways and windows, warming up everything inside: inhale, exhale. It has a soft spiciness, but on the whole is a clean and soft amber, far more approachable than most. After an hour, it’s softer and muskier, holding beautifully. Now, it feels like picking up a soft fur winter coat, closing your eyes and losing your fingers within the folds; comforting, caressing but still arresting as a fragrance. Despite the winter anaolgy, this is ideal for a summer evening when your skin radiates with warmth, damp from the humid air. Neon Amber is the golden touch.

Replica: Under the Stars by Maison Margiela (£120 for 100ml)
'With its blend of oud and amber, Under The Stars captures the cozy ambiance of a campfire crackling beneath a mesmerizing tapestry of stars. This fragrance evokes a sense of warmth and wonder, made to transport you to a night under the open sky.' And yes, it absolutely does. It diluges you with a leathery smokiness from the outset, using a really deep woody oud, but utilising Labdanum resinoid (akin to nectar from the flower) to bring a syrupy, sap-like facet, as if you’re watching logs burning on the campfire but are surrounded by living trees dripping with resin as the air warms up. Black pepper adds a little bite: it’s the ash, drifting through the sky, stars sprinkled in the background. It is raw and pragmantic, but will evoke memories and meaning for many, and has real lasting power. It is definitely more male, and I wouldn’t suggest buying without testing it first.

Under the Stars, Maison Margiela

Born in Roma Green Stravaganza by Valentino (£67 for 50ml)
I chose to skin-test the gents over the womens for this rendition of the 'Born in Roma' collection as I found it more intriguing on paper (written and tested on): it 'takes you on a bold adventure to the cool gardens of Roma where you are free to live and express your unique ways. Born in Roma Green Stravaganza is a fougère ambery fragrance, revealing its magnetic aroma through confronting the freshness from Calabrian bergamot heart and the pure energy surge from the coffee accord.' It is very green and forward, with a definite kick, though its more unpicked coffee beans nestling in the leaves than a shot of espresso. It has a strong initial projection, and is almost jarring, even as it settles, but fades after a while. Generic, premature, and not one I would reach for again - though I do like the Born in Roma Donna Coral Fantasy, so I'm not writing the collection off altogether.

Some samples incoming:
San Ysidro Drive by Victoria Beckham, £170 for 50ml
Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid by Gucci, £135 for 100ml
Ralph’s Club Elixir by Ralph Lauren, £110 for 75ml

AE.