News and reviews: fragrance edition

January has been good to my nose (so far)

Hello, hello, and welcome to the first fragrance reviews of 2025! I am delighted to be dropping this in your inbox on Blue Monday/inauguration day/when is payday day, as I am hoping it brings you a little bit of fragrant escapism and something for your olfactory senses to look forward to. The first part of this newsletter is dedicated to some of my January samples, and the second part to the ‘fradar’, the new releases that have hit the fragrance radar in the past few weeks. I hope it has the desired effect.

Good blues, Bibbi Parfum

Sample sessions

Molecule 01 + iris by Escentric Molecules, £125 for 100ml
Escentric Molecules caused a stir when it launched in 2006, but has had a riot of popularisation in recent years due to its ultra-minimalist, ultra-modern, anti-industry, chemistry-laden, skin-caressing qualities. In a nutshell, perfumer Geza Schoen put a spotlight on Iso E Super, a synthetic aroma-molecule that appears in low concentrations at the back of many fragrances. He isolated and amplified it (up to 65% concentration in the first rendition) to create a fragrance that is warm, soft and completely personal. It is easily one of the forebears to the popularisation of skin scents, weaves right into the quiet luxury trend, and clearly plays into the rising importance of personal experience. The brand is expanding by pairing this molecule with another single note ‘to see how they danced together in the bottle’, and Iris is my first experience of this. The brand uses iris pallida absolute, one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery, and also one of the softest, powderiest, loveliest florals you might ever meet— and meet it here, you shall. I spritzed it while outside en route to the Van Gogh exhibition at the National Gallery on Wednesday morning, and straight away thought of parma violets— those little purple sweets that divide the nation due to their floral-soapy-perfumey taste. While it nods towards that Grandma-esque musky floral we all know, this iris is new, charged with a greenness akin to a touch of bergamot, like an iris tonique. It is clean, pure, understated and elegant, and was still lingering on my skin when I left the office at 5:30PM.

Moon carnival by Vilhelm Parfumerie, about £175 for 50ml
I made a purposeful detour, well out of the way I should have been going, for this particular scent, and the venture was worthy. A combination of passionfruit, bergamot, freesia, tuberose, gardenia and orchid, with a base of marshmallow, tonka bean and vanilla. It sounds like a headache of a mix, doesn’t it? Allow me to confirm it isn’t. It captures your attention with a light and fruity opening, before pulling you in with a beautiful bouquet of pink and white flowers, leaning most toward the tuberose. This is soon joined by the smooth chalkiness of marshmallow, a note that held beautifully on my skin. It is a bit tropical (freesia and orchid) but not like a beach ball in the face, more like looking at a holiday photograph and immersing yourself in the memory. At worst, it is a grown-up Sol de Janeiro body mist; at best, it is a whimsical sweet Summer ballet lingering on your skin. It settles well, but didn’t last as long as expected.

Sparkling Jo by Vilhelm Parfumerie, about £175 for 50ml
‘A rambunctious invitation to live festive and bright’— eight words that capture what this fragrance is about. In short, this is a like-for-like glass of champagne (the drink being a top note), chilled more than it should be, bubbling and fizzing, laced with light citruses and pear. As a drink, sign me up, but as a fragrance, it was too much bubbly and not enough depth, despite a base of musk, oak wood and amber gris. I didn’t test this on my skin, so I would be interested to see how the interaction affects its development and how it performs in terms of longevity, but I can’t imagine it will be something I will rave about, as Champagne is my go-to drink and I don’t really want to smell like it. Kilian’s Apple brandy on the rocks is another like-for-like that I can’t get on board with.

Vilhelm Parfumerie have three new launches, forming part of The Triptych Collection, which I have talked about below.

Cosmic power by Charlotte Tilbury, £130 for 100ml
This is the second Charlotte Tilbury scent I have tried on skin (the rest I have tested from the bottle or on paper) and it is the most interesting of the collection. It bursts with golden amber spiked with citrussy elemi that sparkles as it disperses. Spicy-sweet cinnamon and balsamic frankincense then roll up to support the amber, turning the scent into something that reminds me of liquorice, thanks to the interplay between the resinous, spiced and sweeter notes. I really like the addition of pink rose, which mingles with musk as the fragrance settles. It is described to be ‘the perfect empowering scent that transports you on a magnetic journey into your inner self’. I can get on board with the magnetic reference, but I don’t think ‘empowering’ is the best word for this one. Within a few minutes the experience is over, and it settles into something more generic in tone, but lasts well.

Ghost of Tom by BIBBI Parfum, £225 for 100ml
I have been wanting to try this for an age, but never had the chance to spend proper time with it until now. I know Ghost of Tom is the best known of the Bibbi brand, and I intended to celebrate something a little less appreciated, however, I would be lying to you all if I did not disclose that this is my favourite one. It is so very good. The story behind the scent draws upon the belief that 2% of the world’s population is invisible to us, their presence only sensed through fragrance: an addictive smoky tea-like essence that lingers in their wake. It is surprisingly light, slightly zesty, fresh and green, courtesy of bergamot, blackcurrant, mate (a tea-like note), black tea and violet leaf. There is black amber at the base, but it isn’t your usual dose of gold, it just sits still, perfectly unexplored, which I think captures the essence of the fragrance. It isn’t strong, but it is engaging; a trail you want to follow. I didn’t test it on my skin, but I am keen to do so, as there are underlying woody notes that I think need the warmth to unlock them. So very good.

I don’t want to like it, but Ambre Nuit Esprit by Dior, one of their ‘reimagined’ highly concentrated versions of some of their fragrances, is a real treat. It is so deep and rich, full of glorious amber, warming cinnamon and spiced cardamom which immerse you into a mature and sophisticated timber-and-gingerbread world. I compared it with Ambre Nuit EDP, but the latter was a mere fraction of the delight. At £380 for 80ml, it is a fortune, but I liked it.

Noteworthy newness

Osmanthus nectar by Gucci, part of The Alchemist’s Garden collection, £240 for 100ml
Osmanthus is a flower with an apricot-like scent, and Gucci has chosen to emphasise this quality with an apricot top note, along with bergamot and cardamom. Osmanthus sits at the heart in two ways: an infusion and a ‘nature print’, and is paired with tea accord (aligning with one of my 2025 fragrance predictions). At the base is creamy sandalwood and cedarwood essence. It is penned as a delicate floral with a woody base and a subtle touch of dry spiciness. The bottle is absolutely beautiful.

Fiori de Neroli by Gucci, part of The Alchemist’s Garden collection, £240 for 100ml
My predictions also included orange and cedar, both of which are ticked off thanks to this, and it promises to be special. Gucci have ‘exclusively’ partnered with Liguria’s last Neroli producer to create a fragrance that celebrates the ancient art of distillation, maximising on the floral beauty of neroli using petitgrain, bergamot, green mandarin, orange flowers and jasmine, balanced with warm cedarwood. Another gorgeous bottle for the dressing table too.

Blythe spirit by Norfolk Natural Living, £75 for 50ml
Inspired by the landscape, beaches and history of Suffolk, taking its name from the Blyth river that weaves through the countryside and the old English word to mean joyous and cheerful, I predict this is going to be a hit. It is a mix of soft gold amber threads that ‘sway gently’ as faint jasmine carries in the breeze. Sparkling elemi evokes sunshine on the water, vetiver, a grassy freshness, and patchouli promises a soft woodiness. ‘Where crisp air meets the wild beauty and warmth of the land’— novelesque.

Infusion de rhubarbe by Prada, £145 for 100ml (currently exclusive to Selfridges)
Rhubarb: sweet, tart and thrilling in fragrance form. I really liked Infusion d’Amande, tried last year and written up for National Fragrance Week. In that same newsletter, I wrote about Guerlain’s Rose Cherie, and how marvellous I found its sherbet-like tang, vibrating from top to bottom. I am hoping Prada brings a similar energy. Unsurprisingly, rhubarb sits at the heart, but there is green mandarin at the top (extracted from the unripe fruit, so it tends to be a little softer on the citrus, sometimes bitter, but always fresh), some rose at the heart (expected), and a base of white musks and aldehydes, meaning clean, soft and possibly soapy. It sounds playful and perfect for spring.

Beaver maple edition by Zoologist (only sample sizes are available at the moment, about $8)
The narrative centres on the industrious spirit of beavers and the way the world transitions from winter into spring. The ‘sun-drenched air’ coaxes them out of their timber dens, and the diet of twigs and dry buds is replaced by fresh water lillies and leaves. They breathe it all in, then set off to begin their carpentry. At the same time, farmers begin tapping the trees for sugary sap. How does this translate into a scent? Using water lily and neroli, maple, vetiver, vanilla, cocoa shell, woods and even castoreum— an oily substance that comes from the castor sacs of beavers and has a musky, leathery scent profile. Fear not, this is castoreum reconstitution, i.e. a synthetic replica. Woody, sweet, floral and warm— another treat to wait for.

THE TRIPTYCH COLLECTION by Jérôme Epinette for Vilhelm Parfumerie. Three fragrances exploring greatness and nobility, prestige and fate, desire and power. €300 for 100ml
Sun cities: ‘The sun cities offer a marvellous haven… between opulence and refinement, between history and desire… it is a magical place where the heart and mind are recharged.’ A combination of pineapple, mandarin, cardamom, leather, violet, saffron, oakmoss, osmanthus, patchouli, amber, pink sugar and musk.
Chimilka: ‘A noble woman made of fire… an ode to all the women who transcend their femininity to express what they are made of… A promise of empowerment’ (we are loving this word, aren’t we?) The combination is the same as above, but using peach at the top in place of pineapple, thus far more appealing to me.
Great Lord: ‘A timeless promise of empowerment. An attractive feeling of mystery… invites you to follow your path…’ As above, but with plum.

Two more fruits:
Pêche Mirage by Guerlain, part of the L’Art & La Matiere collection, £295 for 100ml, described as ‘an addictive and bold interpretation of a leathery peach’.
Moonlight Cherry by Van Cleef & Arpels, part of Collection Extraordinaire, usually about £150 for 75ml, comprising rum, almond, cherry, coffee, vanilla and white musk.

If you are flying with Air France, take the opportunity to inhale their new signature home fragrance, AF001, named after the flight number of their concorde journeys between New York and Paris in the 1970s. The perfumer, I am sure you are dying to know, is Francis Kurkdjian. It is described as a ‘comforting musky scent, combined with mimosa from the south of France, (which) adds a sunny, natural vibrancy’, the inspiration coming from the rays of sunshine that hit the wings of an aircraft. Jasmine and rose also feature, making a journey with Air France a truly sensorial experience, apparently.

And finally, Parfums de Marly have announced a new fragrance, which I expect will be revealed this week. I didn’t have the patience to sit on this newsletter any longer.