Rollicking rhubarb: fragrance edition
The zingiest, springiest scents to brighten up the season
What started as a temperate curiosity about Prada’s newest de infusion, first mentioned in my January news and reviews, has, upon testing it, transpired into a fully fledged adoration, followed by a forcible compulsion to seek out as many rhubarb-forward fragrances I could manage.
Rhubarb isn’t a new or unusual note to find in a fragrance, but it is one of the most thrilling. It smells exactly how you would imagine, yet suprises you every time: tart, fruity, sweet, sour, pink, green, sparkly, sharp. There are red berries, green apples, picked leaves, pulled stems and gentle florals, all wrapped up in a rhubarb coat. As with any note, different pairings accentuate different characteristics, but rhubarb stays quite true to itself— rightly so.
There are a few reasons why it has taken me so long to relish in the rhubarb. One is that I have eaten it just a handful of times in my younger years, and failed to enjoy any of the experiences. Yes, 20 years have passed and it is probably time for me to get properly acquainted. Is there a rhubarb and custard swirl in one of London’s bakeries yet? Another reason is quite simply that I hadn’t found a scent using rhubarb in a way that excited me enough— until I met Prada. I am now infatuated with one, in love with another, and more averse to certain brands than before. While I haven’t had the chance to experience all on my list, I would be a brute not to point you in their direction.
Enjoy.
Tried & tested
Infusion de rhubarbe by Prada, £145 for 100ml
I begin with the scent that started my escapade and set the bar high. This is beautifully pink and blossomy when it opens, followed by a rush of tingly, tart rhubarb that makes you crave some form of buttery rhubarb pudding or pastry (yes, even me). It envelops you in soft rose and musk, the rhubarb happily nestling in. Worn inside, it has a creamy and powdery character, but when out and about, rhubarb fizzes in its sillage— I like both experiences, and I think plenty of you will too.
Electric rhubarb by Floral Street, £110 for 100ml
I sampled this with three spritzes on my wrist, and knew it was too much in an instant. I was overwhelmed with an alcohol-like opening, but after five or so minutes, it began to soften and open up. Rhubarb is distinguishable, joined by honeyed white and yellow florals (I now know to be a mix of frangipani, jasmine and island gardenia); their sweetness is what takes the lead. Unfortunately, I failed to sense anything ‘electric’, and it didn’t hit me as the ‘bubbly’ fragrance they sell it as. I didn’t hate it, but I ended up washing it off my wrists, and that is something I never do. I know plenty of people really rate this brand, so I won’t strike it off my test list just yet.
Aire anthesis by Loewe, £120 for 50ml
Admittedly, I have a soft spot for Loewe, but I do feel the carefully selected scents for such edits are wholly justified, and I hope this one proves it. The Aire family is inspired by the fresh and pure air that surrounds us, and anthesis is my favourite one. It is gently fruity, softly floral, and generously aquatic, sitting on the good side of watery. You pick up the tang of rhubarb as soon as it opens, but it swiftly swings into greener, dewy territory, remarkably cucumber-like despite having no cucumber in it. As it dries, a tiny ounce of spring-like florals emerge (peony and lily-of-the-valley), fused with an ambery rockrose— their in-house note— and rhubarb comes to play again. It isn’t ‘clean’, but it is clear, really natural and fresh. A fragrant manifestation of the turquoise bottle it comes in.
Rose rhubarb by Experimental Perfume Club, £115 for 50ml
I cannot and won’t stop thinking about this. How I maintained composure in the store I do not know, because I was fanatical inside. The rhubarb in this is remarkable. It arrives with such gusto, gorgeously tangy and fresh, a sparkling green fruitiness exemplified by blackcurrant leaves. Pink roses are abundant, fresh and blooming, still on their bush. But the rhubarb, oh, it fizzes and sparks, so delicious and delightful. The concept of EPC is that you can layer their scents in different ways, and I was shown some combinations that would work with this, but honestly, rose rhubarb was truly perfect on its own.
Corfu by Memo Paris, £235 for 75ml
This is much better on skin than paper. You pick up on rhubarb straight away, fresh in the garden. The scent is citrussy and leafy— some describe it to be heavy on the grapefruit, but I picked up on the greener side of things, courtesy of bergamot and blackcurrant— and dries down to something cleaner and softly woody. It makes you feel like you are in a sun-dappled field somewhere in the Mediterranean (good, given the name), and while nice, it isn’t outstanding. Far more interesting if worn by a gentleman.
The hit list
Pony boy extrait by Jorum Studio, £89 for 30ml
Another promising hit from the independent Scottish perfumers I can’t wait to experience (the first being their boozy Spiritcask). Every scent is designed and crafted in-house, with the aim to reconnect the wearer with their own sense of creativity. Pony boy is packed with notes, from rhubarb, fig and beetroot, to pink lotus, pink pepper and coriander seed— fruity, spicy, green and woody. Pink lotus is an unusual but excitingly fitting note that will power up the sweet-and-sour fruit. I read a review that described it to have ‘puckeringly clear rhubarb notes’, so I was sold.
Flashback by Olfactive Studio, £145 for 100ml
This is one of the most highly-rated of the rhubarb fragrances, and caught my attention with a narrative describing it as an ‘olfactory reminiscence, that of the enveloping rhubarb tart, yummy, soft, succulently fresh.’ It’s a combination of rhubarb, orange and grapefruit at the top, granny smith apples and pink pepper at the heart, with a base of vetiver, cedar, amber and musk. You can practically visualise the cross-section of a tart as you read it this way. I’ve read that grapefruit and vetiver take the lead.
Lost in the city by Miller Harris, £140 for 100ml
Lost in the city is an exploration of how nature and the city co-exist, and the surprises to be discovered in London’s green spaces. This is another brand I love, and I have utmost confidence they will do rhubarb justice. They describe an intense verdancy contrasted with the ‘sharp pink snap’ of wild rhubarb and rose. Bergamot and blackcurrant for sparkle, Earl grey tea and musk for that escapist feeling; the promise of a Spring-forward rush.
Xi’an by Ormonde Jayne, £175 for 88ml
A British brand creating fragrances that transport you far beyond our borders. Xi’an is a spicy, ambery perfume designed to help you find your inner calm. Rhubarb, which sits at the heart, is joined by black pepper and nutmeg, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk. Evidently, this is going to be spicy and intense (her fragrances are known for their strength), so how rhubarb plays out in practice is something I genuinely look forward to experiencing.
Mary Jane by BORNTOSTANDOUT, £160 for 50ml
Once again, I ventured to Covent Garden on a Saturday and found myself standing outside a fragrance shop with the doors locked. I had my sights set on Mary Jane, launched last year and instantly added to my list. It is a curious mix of notes that will have plenty nuances as it plays out on different skin. Cannabis, grapefruit, mint and rhubarb sit at the top; elemi (another new favourite of mine), passionfruit and sage are at the heart; and caramel, cashmere wood and pine make the base. Clearly, it’s going to be herbaceous, fresh and green (literally), but the promise of tangy rhubarb, juicy passionfruit, sparkling elemi and sweet caramel are so exciting to think about. I imagine a forest or garden after April showers.
Female Christ by 19-69, £158 for 100ml
A fragrance inspired by the tale of a naked woman carrying a wooden cross through Copenhagen Stock Exchange, titled ‘Female Christ’, described as ‘earthy and woody with integrity’, and produced by a niche brand, is bound to cause division. Rhubarb is a heart note with wintergreen, red thyme and geranium, paired with top notes of eucalyptus, patchouli and pimento (chili pepper), and base notes including vanilla, amber and cinnamon bark. Pimento will provide that spicy touch we recognise in other rhubarb scents (e.g. pink pepper), but has a fruitiness which I think will propel the rhubarb. Eucalyptus and patchouli are grounding, and the resinous, woody spices at the base will immerse us in the narrative that inspired the creator. Another brand with plenty of strength, so a skin test is definitely recommended.
Thank you so much for reading this fragrance edit. If you felt inspired to seek out a scent, hated one of the suggestions, or had any other thoughts, I would love for you to share them!
Amie Elizabeth
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I want to smell of rhubarb!